It had only been a few days but I was truly in the swing of things now on the Sahara Challenge. Good job too as when it came to visiting the Medina of Fez, I needed my wits about me.
Eating Iftar with the locals
We’d had quite a long drive from Ouzad to Fez and it was early evening by the time we arrived at the campsite. The original plan to was go in to town and have a meal back the site, but everyone was happy to get up and go to the old town in the morning instead.
It had been organised for the group to join our fixers for Iftar – the meal eaten after sunset to break fast during Ramadan. That felt like a wonderful thing for them to share with us and it was so cool for the campsite to accommodate us.
The meal was lush! Understandably dense though. As is tradition, the meal starts with 3 dates. Then there was bread, soup, pastries, a boiled egg, moroccan flatbread, jams, more sweet treats, banana milkshake, orange juice and a meatball and egg tagine to finish.
After, a few of us gathered outside to chat, while the local stray cats were milling around. I finished my night with a nice shower and headed to the motorhome. We had an 8.30am start tomorrow!
Crazy taxi
We met at reception in the morning and headed off in two taxis. The experience was…interesting. I had a window seat which I was grateful for. Being able to crack it open and get some fresh air in the morning heat was nice.
It was also light relief to look out of the window rather than ahead every time we pulled into oncoming traffic or shot out on to a roundabout. This was my first experience of Moroccan traffic.
So far, I had been on quiet mountain tracks and open back roads. I was also co-pilot on the drive to the campsite. That journey felt like a right of passage. It turns out it was quite a useful experience that would come in handy later on.
Came for the culture, distracted by the animals
We arrived safely at Bab Bou Jeloud (The Blue Gate), the grand entrance to the old city. Our fixers had arranged for a local guide who met us there. The first thing I noticed was not the huge, ornate gate. Not even the traditional buildings I could see poking through the archway.
It was the cats. There was not one, not two but three, just at the entrance. One was eating some discarded pizza and it took every ounce of strength not to scoop it up and get it some food.
As our group continued in to the old city, it was such a contrast to the modern one outside the walls. Compared to the rush of traffic, the beeping of horns and people everywhere, the walled city was quiet.
There were few people, most of the doors were shut and there was hardly any sound. Just the muted shuffles of locals getting ready for a busy day of trading behind their shutters.
Chouara tannery – don’t inhale too deep!
As we followed the guide, it felt like we were getting deeper and deeper into the maze. We went downhill for quite a while, I wasn’t even sure where we were heading to be honest! Eventually, we came to a doorway and stopped. As we went in and up the stairs, I realised we were overlooking the world famous Chouara Tannery.
As I didn’t know where we were going, I didn’t have any expectations or know what to expect. All I knew was we were visiting the Medina of Fez. I also didn’t know why we were given leaves of mint as we went in. Then I inhaled as I got to the balcony of the particular leather shop we were in to see the view.
The smell of this tannery is strong to say the least! They give you mint to smell whilst you are there. The sales people in the shop are more than happy to explain the process to you and talk you through each area. It was mental seeing the process.
Of course, you are steered towards the shop of choice by your guide, who will usually get a cut of any purchases you make. But the shop was wonderful and the people were friendly. After our visit to that shop, we went to the most amazing fabric shop.
The colours and textures were amazing! And our photographer, Alan, got his very own head scarf, including a demonstration of how to put it on. The shop was quite mesmerising to be honest, I nearly bought a scarf but couldn’t decide on just one.
Something happening at every turn in the Medina
After that shop, we carried on through the Medina. By now traders were open and it was pretty much in full swing. The sounds, sights and smells as we moved through the different souks were an assault on the senses! But a wonderful one. As we navigated through the tiny streets, round corners and up and down steps, there was something happening at every turn.
Including lots and lots of cats! I couldn’t cope with it if Im being honest, although most were actually quite healthy and clearly don’t struggle for food here. One that did tug heavy at my heartstrings was a cat in a box, nursing her young kittens.
I definitely started thinking up ways of smuggling that box back to the Bailey without being noticed.
We got to an open square, possibly a central point of this old town. There was a group of American tourists there and the place was teaming with people. There were locals, hitting and shaping copper to make amazing trinkets and vessels of various kinds.
There was also a man with a lathe I think it is, crafting souvenirs. The whole place was insane.
Medina of Fez – definitely worth a visit
The morning had flown by. We started off again, wandering through the maze of streets, stopping at points of interest such as the Bou Inania Madrasa (one of the Islamic schools) and the entrance to the Funduq al-Najjarin (Inn of the carpenters).
There is no traffic in the Medina, apart from donkeys, scooters and bikes. Not that a car could fit in there, its barely big enough for 2/3 people to walk side by side! In fact I believe it is one of the largest pedestrian only areas in the world.
Tips for visiting the Medina of Fez
For anyone thinking of visiting the Medina of Fez, I would say do it! It is definitely a cultural experience and you have to remember that you may see things that will be shocking or distressing. Such as small cages of live animals, donkeys that are worked really hard and stray animals. I definitely struggled with these elements. But I had to try and detach from that (not easy AT ALL) and take from it all the experience of witnessing a different culture in the flesh.
I would also say:
- Make sure you get a licensed guide
- Keep your wits about you
- Don’t have anything valuable on show or easy accessible
- Wear your bag on your front
- Don’t follow touts you meet inside, stick to the licensed ones
- And don’t be afraid to haggle!
- Most importantly, enjoy the experience!